Cutting roses in spring - this is how it's done

Cutting roses in spring - this is how it's done

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When the forsythia buds open, spring work begins in the rosary. Among other things, the roses must now e.g. be cut correctly.

Roses are cut for the first time in spring

Roses with surprising flowering power and impeccable health throughout the garden season, that is what every hobby gardener desires. Admittedly: a challenging but not an unsolvable goal. However, it is important that you work on this objective throughout the garden year. You have to start spring work in the rosary when the spring sun colors the forsythia buds and the flower breaks open. At this point you need to have pruning shears, rose fork and fertilizer in sight. But watch out! Rose is not just rose. The care looks different depending on the type of rose.


11 bush roses

➯ Cut vigorous and vital roses

All bush roses, i.e. bedding and noble roses, can be divided into both vigorous and strongly growing as well as less vital and weakly growing roses. Those specimens that develop robustly in a short time and reach a height of around 1 meter must be cut back to five to seven eyes (see here).

➯ Cut weak stature and less vital roses

Weak and less vital varieties, on the other hand, only reach stature heights of 30 to 50 centimeters. However, they can also occasionally develop shoots of up to one meter. They are generally somewhat weaker. You must therefore shorten them to two or three eyes in the spring (see graphic).

You have to pay attention to the following:

➤ First of all you have to gently pile the roses. Careful because the young and tender shoots can quickly buckle away and are supposed to grow under the accumulated area in warm spring daytime temperatures. The young shoots still look white. With the constant exposure to light, they later turn reddish and then green.

➤ You only need to leave the strong and healthy shoots on the bush. Weak and outdated shoots fall prey to the secateurs. It does not matter whether the upper eye points inwards or outwards after cutting, since the topmost shoot always strives upwards.

➤ It is also advisable not to cut the roses on beds that are still wet until the soil has dried. In this way you avoid that the soil structure is sustainably damaged when you enter the bed.

1. Bush roses

22 climbing roses

Climbing roses are particularly popular because of their flower density. You can achieve this floral splendor if you shorten each side shoot of the main shoots to 3 to 5 eyes (see view). In addition to the cut, you must also regularly rearrange the branches of the climbing rose on the climbing aid. There are also some things to consider here:

➯ Arrange in an arc to horizontal:

Arrange the branches of the climbing rose in such a way that they run arch-like to horizontal on the climbing aid. The cut branches should fill the facade very loosely. If you arrange them too closely, the rose is prone to disease. It also flowers less vigorously.

➯ Do not cut off the bottom shoot:

Under no circumstances should you cut new shoots from the ground, as these contribute significantly to the rejuvenation of the climbing rose. On the other hand, all old branches that protrude far lead to creeping aging.

➯ Taper cut:

If there are no young shoots from the ground for a long time, a special taper cut will help. Here you have to cut off a shoot a few centimeters above the ground. If the plant has vital roots, then the climbing rose restarts on the remaining shoot.

2. Climbing roses

33 shrub and standard stem roses

➯ Shrub and small shrub roses:

You must always remove weak and old shoots from the shrub roses. Then you only have to shorten the last year's blossom or final shoots (see picture). However, make sure that the shoots with their length and the flower load can also be carried by the branches of the rose. The shoots of the shrub rose should overhang slightly but not lie on the ground.

➯ Roses grafted on standard tree:

With the cutting of roses refined on a standard stem, you create two prerequisites: on the one hand, you promote a rich flower base and on the other hand, you lay the foundation for a loose crown. You have to make the cut shorter on all upright stem roses (shown here graphically), you also have to make sure that the top buds point outwards.

➯ Climbing or ground cover roses as a standard:

The climbing and ground cover roses are always left with shoots as long as possible. Only the side shoots should be cut with the spring cut.

3. Shrub and standard stem roses

44 Loosen the soil immediately after the spring cut

➯ Break up compressed earth clods:

Immediately after the spring pruning, it is important that you loosen the soil in the rosary. With a two-pronged rose fork (e.g. available here), simply break open the compressed earth clods around the rose about 15 centimeters deep.

➯ Fertilize in spring:

After that, it is necessary to replenish the soil's nutrient deposit for the season, so you have to fertilize the roses. An organic-mineral rose fertilizer with a long-lasting effect is suitable for this, such as the combo rose long-term fertilizer (e.g. available here). Just adding 100 grams of fertilizer per square meter (in March / April) will supply your roses with all the important nutrients and trace elements for the next 6 months.

If the rose then receives 120 to 150 grams of soil activator per square meter, then take additional care of the soil and at the same time strengthen rose health.